Lost Kasubi in Kampala

I usually try to avoid writing about things that are too off-theme on this blog, but it's not everyday when your life actually somehow touches breaking world news. Just five days ago, Young and I (along with a friend of mine, Marsha) visited the Kasubi Tombs in Kampala. One of the main tourist sites there, it was built in 1881 and is where four of the last Bugandan kings were laid to rest. It has served as a symbol for Bugandan pride and has been an important spiritual and political site. (Buganda was one of the four major kingdom historically located within the borders of modern-day Uganda.) On our visit, we felt that the Tomb site itself was not that interesting - a few mud and grass huts mainly. However, the stories of Buganda, its kings, and the political maneuvering were quite interesting. We enjoyed the visit, but didn't think much of it as we left.

Fast forward to this morning when I received an e-mail from my friend living in Kampala saying that the Kasubi Tombs had completely burned to the ground yesterday. (You can read more at BBC News.) Young and I saw smoke from a large fire that very day as we were preparing to leave Kampala, but had no clue what it was. We now think it was actually the Tombs burning down. Apparently, rioting began almost immediately, and at least four people have already been killed in the mess. Assertions of arson and an attempt to block a presidential visit to the site has kept tensions and violence high. My friend tells us that it's a pretty scary situation there right now.

It's really crazy to think that we were some of the very last visitors to this UNESCO World Heritage site, and that the pictures below may be some of the last ones ever taken of it. I am sad anytime something of cultural significance is lost. This particular event is not just sad though, but also a bit unbelievable. I was literally just there, and now it's completely gone. Let's hope that Kampala does not devolve into some mess and that both the city, the Bugandans, and the country can pull through largely unscathed.