Capsule Spot: Botswana

I have written before on the blog that Botswana may have been my favorite destination in all of Africa. Looking back, I believe this still holds true. The combination of incredible nature, high quality service and lodging, and good food make Botswana a really good place to go for an African experience. On the flip side, all of this comes at a cost, and a high one at that. Botswana is not cheap, and it is not easy to navigate – one reason that most people come on packaged tours. While I can never promote a packaged tour, I suppose Botswana is as good a place as any to take one. Just make sure that you try to patronize local-owned businesses (very hard) and contribute to the local economy – not just the foreign owned luxury resorts.

Things to See and Do

Okavango Delta | This is perhaps the single biggest reason to visit Botswana. The Okavango Delta is one of the only places in the world where a major river ends not in the ocean, but in a desert. When it does, it creates an inland delta larger than you can imagine, drawing wildlife from around the region and creating one of the most surreal landscapes in the world. At the very least, take a peaceful mokoro (wooden dugout canoe) ride on the river or in one of the chanels and pray that a hippo doesn’t break your boat in two. Better yet, if you have the money, take a flight into the Delta and stay in one of the many camps there for two to seven days and really get a feel for the place. Expect to pay at least 250USD a night, and upwards of 3000USD at the most insane but luxurious places. (Previously posted pictures here.)

Chobe River Cruise | On the border of Botswana and Namibia, the Chobe River is where Botswana’s three major Delta parks start. Take a three hour cruise on the river and see elephants, kudu, crocodiles, hippos, impalas, and all sorts of birdlife on the shores. Being on the river itself provides a welcome change of perspective from the traditional jeep-safari, and even if the animals are sparse, the cruise is still enjoyable – how can doing nothing while floating on a river with a setting sun ever be unenjoyable?

The List

Botswana has good beef. If you’re not a vegetarian, and you love hamburgers, I would seriously consider taking a detour towards Gweta and stopping at Planet Baobab to try one of their delectable burgers – potentially the best I’ve had in the past two years. The lodge itself is also pretty nice, and campsites are cheap and clean – both added bonuses.

The Chobe River Lodge has probably the best deal in town – if you have a tent. While rooms at this four-star hotel cost at least 100USD a night, bring your own tent and stay for just 10USD a person. Outdoor bathroom facilities are spotless, and on top of that, you get to use all of the common area facilities like bar and pool as a guest. And, if you’re lucky, you’ll wake up to the sound of hippos ambling through the campground.

It’s never easy to find good, reliable wi-fi while on the road, but here’s an unexpected spot: the Maun airport offers free wi-fi (although a bit slow) that is good enough to check your email and make onward bookings. Given that all flights into the Delta basically pass through this airport, it’s definitely something to keep in mind for the connection-starved.

World-wise Wisdom

Botswana is not cheap, and it is an incredibly difficult place to eat cheaply, especially in smaller towns like Kasune (where Chobe National Park starts.) One of the cheapest options is to go to a supermarket like Choppies and get something from their hot food section. Three dollars or so buys you a filling and surprisingly tasty meal.

Hitch-hiking is fairly common in the more remote parts of Botswana, and most drivers expect a payment equal to what a bus ticket might cost for a similar journey. Know how much you should pay, pay attention to safety and security, and then hitch away!