Capsule Spot: Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

Ho Chi Minh (or Saigon, as it was once known) surprised me. It was more vibrant, more dynamic, more enticing than I had expected. The city is in that nice transition phase, where everyday Western luxuries like coffee shops and good pastries are readily available while the city still retains much of its flavor and character. It is also still relatively cheap, so travelers on a budget won’t cringe here, and those with a taste for luxury don’t have to break the bank.

Things to See and Do

Mekong Delta | While still a ways away from HCMC, the Mekong Delta is a convenient one day or overnight excursion, and worth doing. See how people are living in modern times on the most important river in Vietnam, and get a taste of local delicacies and fruits. Traditions may not be as strong as they once were, but a trip to the Mekong is still a good way of getting a taste of how the “real” Vietnam lives. One day trips involve quite a bit of road travel in relation to time spent on the river, so I’d suggest an overnight trip instead. Many companies also offer three day trips, but this seems to be a bit of overkill.

War Remnants Museum | This place used to be known as the Museum of American War Crimes. It has recently changed its name, after relations with the US normalized, but I daresay the contents of the museum have remained largely the same. The exhibits here present an unfortunate and wasteful war in all of its gory detail, and while there is no doubt propaganda here, I would venture to guess that there is more that is true than many Americans would want to believe. Disturbing exhibits aside, the collection of left-over American war machinery outside alone makes this museum worth visiting.

Saigon Saigon Bar @ the Caravelle | One of the most famous landmarks in Saigon, the Saigon Saigon is still worth an evening, if not for the drinks, then for the amazing view of downtown Ho Chi Minh. Located centrally, across from the Opera House, the views from Saigon Saigon are unparalleled. Especially nice on a cool evening, bring your camera and your wallet – drinks are not cheap.

The List

Yearning for a good massage but want to avoid those awkward happy ending offers? Look no further than 118 Foot & Body Massage, a smallish, new, clean, and totally legitimate spa in the heart of downtown Saigon. For a little less than 15 dollars, get access to a hot shower, a sauna, and an 80 minute oil massage complete with hot stones. 118 Pasteur Street, District 1, HCMC. 08-38215313

It’s a bit hidden and off the beaten track, but if you’re looking for a good French patisserie and boulangerie, you may want to drop by La Doree. Owned by a French Vietnamese, this place serves delicious looking pastries and decent food in a comfortable restaurant.

Essentially every tourist will have come to Ngon, but for good reason. Few other places offer the combination of food selection, tourist-friendly menu, cleanliness, and taste that Ngon does. Get pretty authentic specialties from around the country, and – added bonus! – finish off with traditional desserts. Reasonably priced for a tourist trap.

World-wise wisdom

Getting around – taxi’s are easy, but by no means necessary. Don’t be afraid to get on the bus. For 3000 dong, you can get into downtown Saigon from nearly anywhere.

If you’re backpacking and not 21, avoid the Pham Ngu Lau area. There are plenty of affordable (but not super-budget) options in other parts of town. Try the area behind Banh Trinh Market, or just south of the Opera House. You should be able to find a private room from 20USD and up.

Capsule Spot: Hong Kong

With all of the good stuff that I’ve said about Hong Kong, and as much time as I’ve spent there, it’s surprising that I’ve never actually complied a mini-travel guide to the place. Well, the Capsule Spot seems like the perfect way to correct this situation. By now, anyone reading this should know that Hong Kong holds an incredibly special place in my heart – one of my favorite cities in the world, if not my very favorite. Food, chaos, energy, and the prettiest skyline in all of the world. What’s there not to like?

Things to See and Do

The Harbor | This is the only must-do activity in Hong Kong, and truthfully, much of what you will do in Hong Kong is a variation there-of. From finding restaurants with great views, to getting a stellar hotel room, to visiting the Peak, all of it is to see what is likely the most amazing skyline in the world. Better yet, the best view has been and still is free – directly across the Harbor in Tsim Tsa Tsui near the Star Ferry terminal. Take a leisurely stroll along the water’s edge and give yourself a good hour to just let your eyes and mind wander aimlessly over human ambition.

Escape the Chaos | Hong Kong is one of the most over-whelming places you will ever visit. With nearly 16,000 people per square mile and buildings that rise to nearly incomprehensible heights everywhere, it is easy to forget that that less than 25% Hong Kong’s total area is developed. Get out and see the parks, the beaches, or the outlying islands. Lamma Island is popular with ex-pats for it’s laid-back vibe, while Cheung Chau island offers the annual bun-festival in a sleepy island setting. Both are easily accessible by ferry. If you’re water-averse though, head to the back-side of Hong Kong Island to the sleepy hamlets of Repulse Bay, Aberdeen, and Stanley and take some pictures of beaches, junks, and the 1960s. There are also quite a few decent beaches in Hong Kong – locals swear by Big Wave Bay on the far eastern side of Hong Kong Island, while more ambitious folk will appreciate the isolation of a beach like Hap Mun Bay.

Mong Kok |Probably the most densely populated areas in one of the most densely populated places in the world, Mong Kok is full of people. It is worth going to on the weekend just to witness what a sea of humanity really looks like. It helps also that Mong Kok is one of the most vibrant shopping districts in the city, with malls (Langham Place), street stalls (Ladies Market), and hundreds of places to buy electronics. Goldfish Street is also fun to check out during the day, and there are a plethora of food choices (see below for my personal choice for BBQ here!) Finally, being the transit hub for all of Kowloon means that you’ll find ridiculous amounts of people wandering about at all hours here. It’s just like being in a triad movie (which are all based on Mong Kok anyway.) You have to see it to believe it.

The List

BBQ or char siu as it is more correctly known, is some of the best meat you’ll ever eat. Dim Sum lovers will know this best from BBQ pork buns, but it’s not the same until you get it fresh, still dripping, from the window. Try it at Wing Kee Restaurant (177 Portland Street) while taking a rest from all of the walking and shopping in Mong Kok; and since you’re in the adventurous mood, just go ahead and go crazy – get the crispy skin roast pork, the roast duck, and the roast goose too. My mouth is watering just thinking about it.

Some of the best Indian in the world can be found in Hong Kong, owing to its colonial past and the many Indians that the Brits brought over with them. A vegetarian friend introduced me to Branto in Tsim Tsa Tsui (9 Lock Road, 1/F) years ago, and I’ve been going back ever since. Everything is pretty good, but make sure you get the pani-puri. It’s safe and tasty.

A good meal deserves a good dessert to boot. Hong Kong desserts are just great. You can go the traditional route, with things like red beans soup or hazelnut milk. Or, you can go my favorite route, and get some of the fruit based desserts. Honeymoon Dessert is one of the more famous and reliable chains – you can find outlets in many malls (try Langham Place in Mong Kok, or World Trade Center in Causeway Bay.) I, however, almost always stop by Cheung Kee in Yau Ma Tei (21 Woo Sung Street.) Here, I have three words for you: mango, pomelo, sago. Delicious.

Most people go to Lan Kwai Fong for nightlife, but that’s so blasé. Instead, get a view with your drinks at these pricey but high-value bars. AquaSpirit is on the 30^th floor of One Peking in Tsim Tsa Tsui, offers so-so food and absolutely stunning view of Hong Kong (translation: just get a drink here.) On Island-side, Azure at the top of LKF Hotel in upper Lan Kwai Fong offers 29^th floor views from the top of a hill. Nice. In Admiralty, you can check out how Swire does swank at the Upper House in Pacific Place Mall. Café Grey Deluxe, on the top floor, is now the place where the who’s who in HK go to be seen, and has been getting rave reviews for the food – I haven’t tried it yet, but I find it hard to believe that anything could be better than the view here.

Finding a good place to stay in Hong Kong is always hard (and harder if you’re on a budget.) Screw it, just pay up and find out what real luxury feels like. Hullett House in Tsim Tsa Tsui offers only suites, and only 9 of them, all individually designed. Expect to pay over 500USD a night. The Peninsula, also in Tsim Tsa Tsui, is proven luxury, while I’ve heard good things about both Upper House and EAST from Swire (although EAST is a bit further from where the action is.) The most affordable 5-star luxury hotel in all of Hong Kong though, seems to be the Langham Place in Mong Kok, where a room is still just around 200USD. Being the only one of the above I’ve stayed in, I’m recommending this one.

World-wise Wisdom

Take the MTR. Everywhere. It’s fast, cheap, and simple to ride. If you’re there for a week, consider getting an Octopus card. It costs 50HKD to start out with, but you get a discount on all rides and it makes for a pretty cool souvenir.

The cheapest way to get from the airport to anywhere you want to go is by bus. The E buses are cheapest, but take much longer. The A buses are more expensive, but faster – about 40 minutes to Central on Hong Kong Island. If you’re in a rush though, feel free to splurge on the Airport Express train – about 10USD for a 25 minute ride to Central Station on Island side.

The best value (outside of the Star Ferry which is universally known as a tourist must-do) is the Island-side trolley that runs from Sheung Wan to Causeway Bay. For 2HKD, you get to go virtually the length of the island and see the city from a whole other perspective. Plop yourself down on a front seat upstairs and just enjoy the ride – it’ll take close to an hour with traffic, but you’re a tourist with time, aren’t you?

Capsule Spot: Manila, Philippines

I’ve already waxed poetic on the joys of living in Manila, so I won’t rehash all of that here. In general, I’m a big fan of the lifestyle that I can live in Manila, but less a fan of the city itself. Pollution, intense heat, and terrible traffic are but a few of the joys of everyday Manila living. Yet, this is more than made up for by the amiable people, diversity of entertainment options, and affordable food. I’m not sure how great a place Manila is for tourists, but I think it’s a pretty decent place to live.

Things to See and Do

Pasig River | Overlooked and underused, the ferry on the Pasig is one of the cheapest and best ways to the city. For just thirty pesos one way, you can get a river-level view of slums, rich neighborhoods, and industrial areas that are rarely seen otherwise. You will likely not find a more peaceful and relaxing mode of transportation in all of Metro Manila. It’s a fast way to move from one section of the city to another also.

Fort Santiago | Perhaps the only real tourist attraction in Manila, Fort Santiago and the surrounding old city are worth visiting just to get a taste of the colonial Spanish influence on the country. The golf course in the middle of the historical fort is a bit disconcerting, and the ticket price is high relative to what you get to see at the Fort itself, so if you choose to forego the Fort and instead just wander around the small alleys and streets in the Intermuros district, I would not fault you.

The List

Chicken and rice is everywhere, but if you really want to try some great chicken, head over to Bugong on Valero in Salcedo Village, Makati. Cheap, tasty, and a hole in the wall – this place is great for roasted chicken. If you’re feeling more like fried chicken, done Filipino style, try Max’s, a Filipino institution. A bit pricier than most other places, you can still pick up a full plate of chicken, rice, and cole slaw for around five bucks. Find Max’s throughout the city.

Casa Armas offers tasty tapas and Filipino food at a reasonable price. It’s not cheap, but for what you get, it’s worth it. I didn’t have a chance to try it, but a friend swears by their lechon – “so tender, they chop it up for you with a plate.” Sign me up! I went to the location on Jupiter Street in Makati, but check around as they have at least two more locations in Metro Manila.

Get your shopping on… anywhere. However, I suggest heading to Greenbelt in Makati for the best selection and indoor air conditioning. You can also go to church at Greenbelt too if you just have to do some shopping on the Sabbath. Mall of Asia is a good second choice, but further afield and it doesn’t have as many good dining options. It does however have an ice-skating rink.

There is a ton of great live music in Manila, but many of the places take a bit of work to get to when traffic is heavy. I ended up sticking to Makati a lot, and I think Suguijo is a gem of a find for live music. Basically just a tiny house, lots of popular indie acts will give rollicking live performances here an up-close and personal musical experience.

World-wise Wisdom

One of the best ways to get around is via Jeepney – the crazy and colorful converted American jeeps that dominate Filipino roads. Get a little taste of Filipino culture as you clamber into the back, sit on bench seats, and help pass money to the driver. Fares start at seven pesos and can go as high as thirteen, depending on the distance traveled. That’s right, you might pay a quarter if you go really far.

There are plenty of spas around that offer quality pampering in a nice environment for fairly cheap prices by Western standards. However, those in the know often eschew going to a spa for the cheaper and more convenient option of having a masseuse come straight to your home. Expect to pay 300 to 350 pesos (around 7-8 dollars) for an hour long sweedish or shiatsu massage, and despite the shady sound of it, most companies are legit and don’t offer any “special services.” Ask around to make sure you get a reputable company. Splurge for a twin massage if you’re feeling extra tense – two masseuses at once, for just under 2x the price!

Arriving at Ninoy Aquino Airport at a decent non-traffic-y hour? Don't take the fixed price cab then. Get in a metered cab, and get in one at the DEPARTURES level. They are 1/2 to 1/3 of the price of the taxis that pick you up from the ARRIVALS hall. Just go upstairs and get in line with all of the Filipinos.

Capsule Spot: Kampala, Uganda

I think the most striking thing about Uganda is how nice everyone seems to be. They are generally relaxed, smiling, and helpful. This doesn’t mean that Kampala doesn’t have its share of crime – you should still watch your back – but you it certainly is much safer and more accessible both day and night than many of the other major African cities (or so I’ve heard.) There is not too much to see in the way of tourist attractions, there is virtually no shopping, and things are not that cheap, but it is a nice place to whittle away a few laid-back days in between safaris or other more adventurous activities.

Things to See and Do

Old Taxi Park | I can be a jaded and grizzled veteran when it comes to unique sights in cities (people gush about Moroccan souks, but to me, they’re just markets with lots of alleys – been there done that!) so it surprises me when something impresses me. The Old Taxi Park in Kampala is unlike anything I’ve ever seen, and I’m pretty sure it’s unlike anything you’ve ever seen. Hundreds, maybe thousands of van taxis all in one place, with commerce throughout and surrounding it. This is one place you should definitely check out. Keep your valuables close, but then again, I never really felt threatened.

Raft the Nile | Apparently the Victoria Nile is one of the five best places to go rafting. I have no experience with it, but I can say that even with my fear of water, I had an absolute blast and didn’t really feel in danger at any point. Wide, deep, and warm, the Victoria Nile is the real deal when it comes to its rapids, but also a decent river to fall into when the going gets too rough. The site is a good hour and a half outside Kampala and your best bet is get a free transfer with a rafting company (check also for a free night of accommodation in Jinja from your rafting company if you don’t feel like rushing back to Kampala day of.) It’s not cheap – expect to pay between 95 to 125USD. The three best companies are Nile River Explorers, Adrift, and Nalubale.

The List

Kampala has a decent selection of different foods, with some of the best being Indian food. It doesn’t come terribly cheap, but it is tasty. Perhaps the most well regarded restaurant is Khana Khazana on Acacia Road in Kololo. Another good choice is Tandoori in Kisementi, also in Kololo, where you can order a spicy green pepper naan that is pretty unique.

If you’re more into sandwiches, then you’ll want to try Café Javas in Oasis Plaza next to Centenary Park. They’ve got great big sandwiches (try the chicken salad!) served with a generous heaping of chips for around 5-6 USD.  Their sodas are also reasonably prices at 1000 Ugandan Shillings, or around 50 cents.

Need wi-fi? Go to Good African Coffee. The easiest location is probably at Lugogo Plaza on Jinja Road. The food here isn’t as good as it is in Javas, but the wi-fi is free, and they probably have the best coffee in all of Kampala.

World-wise Wisdom

Always check your bill. Ugandan restaurants can smell a newbie a mile away and will almost always try to rip you off somehow. Ten dollars for a bottle of water? “Oh, sorry, my mistake, it’s dark.” 9000 schillings in change becomes 900 schillings when it comes to your table? “Oops, they must have counted wrong, sorry.” Large and small beverages cost the exact same amount of money? “The computer only has one listing for that item, so they’re the same price.” Nothing is out-of-bounds. Just be vigilant, and feel free to stiff them on the tip – maybe then they’ll get the hint.

Taxis are the cheapest way to move around town. Short distances will cost 300 schillings, while most rides will cost 500 or 700, while long distances can cost 1000 or even 1500. Foreigners will almost always get overcharged, so feel free to bargain down one level – if they ask for 1000, tell them you’ll pay 700. If they ask for 500, give them 300.

During rush hour, avoid the traffic by taking a boda-boda (motorbike.) Look for someone who looks like they’ve been riding for a while, and then hang on for dear life. They cost more than a van taxi, but you’ll get there in a quarter of the time.

Capsule Spot: Botswana

I have written before on the blog that Botswana may have been my favorite destination in all of Africa. Looking back, I believe this still holds true. The combination of incredible nature, high quality service and lodging, and good food make Botswana a really good place to go for an African experience. On the flip side, all of this comes at a cost, and a high one at that. Botswana is not cheap, and it is not easy to navigate – one reason that most people come on packaged tours. While I can never promote a packaged tour, I suppose Botswana is as good a place as any to take one. Just make sure that you try to patronize local-owned businesses (very hard) and contribute to the local economy – not just the foreign owned luxury resorts.

Things to See and Do

Okavango Delta | This is perhaps the single biggest reason to visit Botswana. The Okavango Delta is one of the only places in the world where a major river ends not in the ocean, but in a desert. When it does, it creates an inland delta larger than you can imagine, drawing wildlife from around the region and creating one of the most surreal landscapes in the world. At the very least, take a peaceful mokoro (wooden dugout canoe) ride on the river or in one of the chanels and pray that a hippo doesn’t break your boat in two. Better yet, if you have the money, take a flight into the Delta and stay in one of the many camps there for two to seven days and really get a feel for the place. Expect to pay at least 250USD a night, and upwards of 3000USD at the most insane but luxurious places. (Previously posted pictures here.)

Chobe River Cruise | On the border of Botswana and Namibia, the Chobe River is where Botswana’s three major Delta parks start. Take a three hour cruise on the river and see elephants, kudu, crocodiles, hippos, impalas, and all sorts of birdlife on the shores. Being on the river itself provides a welcome change of perspective from the traditional jeep-safari, and even if the animals are sparse, the cruise is still enjoyable – how can doing nothing while floating on a river with a setting sun ever be unenjoyable?

The List

Botswana has good beef. If you’re not a vegetarian, and you love hamburgers, I would seriously consider taking a detour towards Gweta and stopping at Planet Baobab to try one of their delectable burgers – potentially the best I’ve had in the past two years. The lodge itself is also pretty nice, and campsites are cheap and clean – both added bonuses.

The Chobe River Lodge has probably the best deal in town – if you have a tent. While rooms at this four-star hotel cost at least 100USD a night, bring your own tent and stay for just 10USD a person. Outdoor bathroom facilities are spotless, and on top of that, you get to use all of the common area facilities like bar and pool as a guest. And, if you’re lucky, you’ll wake up to the sound of hippos ambling through the campground.

It’s never easy to find good, reliable wi-fi while on the road, but here’s an unexpected spot: the Maun airport offers free wi-fi (although a bit slow) that is good enough to check your email and make onward bookings. Given that all flights into the Delta basically pass through this airport, it’s definitely something to keep in mind for the connection-starved.

World-wise Wisdom

Botswana is not cheap, and it is an incredibly difficult place to eat cheaply, especially in smaller towns like Kasune (where Chobe National Park starts.) One of the cheapest options is to go to a supermarket like Choppies and get something from their hot food section. Three dollars or so buys you a filling and surprisingly tasty meal.

Hitch-hiking is fairly common in the more remote parts of Botswana, and most drivers expect a payment equal to what a bus ticket might cost for a similar journey. Know how much you should pay, pay attention to safety and security, and then hitch away!

Capsule Spot: Dubai, U.A.E.

Dubai is one of those rare places in the world that is uber-hyped, and actually lives up to or maybe even exceeds that hype when you finally get there. Superlatives are normal and necessary descriptors for a city that boasts the tallest building in the world, the most luxurious hotel in the world, a bunch of artificial islands arranged in what look like kiddie-completed doodles off the coast, and exorbitant prices. With a collection of stores and brands unrivaled in any part of the world I have been to, Dubai offers essentially something for everyone – it’s an interesting place to see, but don’t stay long unless you independently wealthy or on an expense account.

Things to See and Do

Atlantis | For a little taste of Las Vegas in Dubai, head out to the Palm Jumeriah and visit the Atlantis Hotel. Decorated with an insane collection of over-the-top colors and decorations of a lost underwater city, the hotel also features a huge aquarium, a fancy beach, and a full-on water park. Get a “reservation” for drinks at the outside beach bar in order to get outside and see the water.

Burj Khalifa | This is one of my regrets. The Burj Khalifa’s observation deck on the 124^th floor was closed when we were in Dubai, so we actually didn’t get to see it. However, despite not having experienced it myself, I think I’d still say this is a must-do on your itinerary. I’m a sucker for tall buildings though. If you do decide to go, get online and book your ticket in advance. You’ll save about 60 dollars this way, meaning your ticket will ‘only’ cost you forty.

The Malls | Take your pick between the Mall of Dubai and the Mall of the Emirates. One has a huge aquarium in the middle, the other has a ski slope. One has Lafayette, the other has Harvey Nichols. Both are littered with well-known brands from around the globe, and both are ginormous. My personal pick is probably the Mall of Dubai, just because it seems to have more food options, a better outdoor area, and is located right next to the Burj Khalifa.

The List

The only way to get into the Burj Al Arab (Dubai’s famous sail-shaped 7-star hotel) is to have an inside connection, be super rich and have a room there, or eat at one of the restaurants in the hotel. We chose the latter, and made reservations at the Skyview Restaurant on the 27^th floor of the hotel. It’s the cheapest option, but it still cost us a mint. At least we got some tasty cocktails and a really tasty and large 12 oz. hamburger (that cost fifty bucks.)

I am a huge fan of the Fairmont Dubai. It’s got great spa facilities, a wonderful rooftop pool, and luxurious rooms with good toiletries and services (including a free shoe shine!) It’s also located conveniently close to the airport and the Burj Khalifa, and when the metro station opens up outside, it will be even better. As with everything in Dubai, the Fairmont isn’t cheap, but google for a discount code and be surprised at how cheap five star luxury can be.

World-wise Wisdom

Can’t find easy-to-access free wi-fi? You’re not alone. It seems that most cafes offer wi-fi, but it’s not free. If you need to get online, but don’t want to pay, head over to the Mall of Dubai, where the entire honkin’ mall is a hot-spot. But be sure you register in advance and get a pin emailed to you because the only other way to do it is to have a local mobile phone number. Free wi-fi can also be had at the Borders bookstore in the Mall of the Emirates, no registration required. And, ironically, if you do make it to the Burj Al Arab, you’ll be tempted to pull out the notebook during dinner, because there’s free wi-fi here too.

One of the best places to see the Burj Khalifa is from the back of the Mall of Dubai, near the lake and the fountains. Head out to the bridge across the river towards the gold souk for great night shots of the Khalifa.

Capsule Spot

I had some requests by friends to distill my travel-specific experiences down into mini-guides. I thought it was a good idea, to give some info that you might not find in a guide book, so I decided to do little capsules for different places I visited. I wasn't very diligent about writing these though, so it's pretty patchy.

Each capsule starts with a quick general reaction to the place, followed by three sections:
1. Things to See and Do - fairly self-explanatory, but these are places that I think are worth visiting. A lot of the places to see and do in various guidebooks are listed in order to be comprehensive, but often don't suggest what's best. I am always with an opinion. So I do. Hahha
2. The List - it would be better for a person who has lived in these places to put together a list of cool spots to hit up for food or massages or whatever, but you're not going to live there, and I only had a few days. But these places/things made an impression on me.
3. World-wise wisdom - some things are unavoidable when traveling. Like getting ripped off. But you can try to prevent it, and I include a few pieces of hard-won traveler's experience in this section.

Like I said, I didn't do many of these, but those that I did get done while on the trip, I'm planning on putting up periodically over the next couple weeks. Check back to find out more!