Capsule Spot: Kampala, Uganda

I think the most striking thing about Uganda is how nice everyone seems to be. They are generally relaxed, smiling, and helpful. This doesn’t mean that Kampala doesn’t have its share of crime – you should still watch your back – but you it certainly is much safer and more accessible both day and night than many of the other major African cities (or so I’ve heard.) There is not too much to see in the way of tourist attractions, there is virtually no shopping, and things are not that cheap, but it is a nice place to whittle away a few laid-back days in between safaris or other more adventurous activities.

Things to See and Do

Old Taxi Park | I can be a jaded and grizzled veteran when it comes to unique sights in cities (people gush about Moroccan souks, but to me, they’re just markets with lots of alleys – been there done that!) so it surprises me when something impresses me. The Old Taxi Park in Kampala is unlike anything I’ve ever seen, and I’m pretty sure it’s unlike anything you’ve ever seen. Hundreds, maybe thousands of van taxis all in one place, with commerce throughout and surrounding it. This is one place you should definitely check out. Keep your valuables close, but then again, I never really felt threatened.

Raft the Nile | Apparently the Victoria Nile is one of the five best places to go rafting. I have no experience with it, but I can say that even with my fear of water, I had an absolute blast and didn’t really feel in danger at any point. Wide, deep, and warm, the Victoria Nile is the real deal when it comes to its rapids, but also a decent river to fall into when the going gets too rough. The site is a good hour and a half outside Kampala and your best bet is get a free transfer with a rafting company (check also for a free night of accommodation in Jinja from your rafting company if you don’t feel like rushing back to Kampala day of.) It’s not cheap – expect to pay between 95 to 125USD. The three best companies are Nile River Explorers, Adrift, and Nalubale.

The List

Kampala has a decent selection of different foods, with some of the best being Indian food. It doesn’t come terribly cheap, but it is tasty. Perhaps the most well regarded restaurant is Khana Khazana on Acacia Road in Kololo. Another good choice is Tandoori in Kisementi, also in Kololo, where you can order a spicy green pepper naan that is pretty unique.

If you’re more into sandwiches, then you’ll want to try Café Javas in Oasis Plaza next to Centenary Park. They’ve got great big sandwiches (try the chicken salad!) served with a generous heaping of chips for around 5-6 USD.  Their sodas are also reasonably prices at 1000 Ugandan Shillings, or around 50 cents.

Need wi-fi? Go to Good African Coffee. The easiest location is probably at Lugogo Plaza on Jinja Road. The food here isn’t as good as it is in Javas, but the wi-fi is free, and they probably have the best coffee in all of Kampala.

World-wise Wisdom

Always check your bill. Ugandan restaurants can smell a newbie a mile away and will almost always try to rip you off somehow. Ten dollars for a bottle of water? “Oh, sorry, my mistake, it’s dark.” 9000 schillings in change becomes 900 schillings when it comes to your table? “Oops, they must have counted wrong, sorry.” Large and small beverages cost the exact same amount of money? “The computer only has one listing for that item, so they’re the same price.” Nothing is out-of-bounds. Just be vigilant, and feel free to stiff them on the tip – maybe then they’ll get the hint.

Taxis are the cheapest way to move around town. Short distances will cost 300 schillings, while most rides will cost 500 or 700, while long distances can cost 1000 or even 1500. Foreigners will almost always get overcharged, so feel free to bargain down one level – if they ask for 1000, tell them you’ll pay 700. If they ask for 500, give them 300.

During rush hour, avoid the traffic by taking a boda-boda (motorbike.) Look for someone who looks like they’ve been riding for a while, and then hang on for dear life. They cost more than a van taxi, but you’ll get there in a quarter of the time.

Visions of Uganda

Slowly getting around to organizing some photos, so I will continue the "Visions" series as I process my photos. Here are some backlogged ones from Uganda, over 2 months ago!!! Can you believe it?!?!

Early morning border crossing into Uganda

Making the bananas look pretty in a local Kampalan market

A biker happily poses in Kampala

Family on the shores of Lake Victoria, Uganda

Corporations sponsor building paint jobs. This is a Bic House.

 I wonder if the govt. official who approved this got promoted or fired? No, you are not seeing incorrectly. That IS a big Coke bottle in the middle of a traffic circle.

They use old cars as part of their signage. Seems like a lot of work!

 1/10 of what may be the most insane public transportation gathering area I've ever seen.

Surviving the near-malaria experience

Well, I've survived my first near-malaria scare. I still am not sure what it was, but I got some sort of stomach bug right as I got off the bus in Mombasa - it could have been the slightly clumpy yogurt I finished the night before, the lack of sleep on the overnight bus, or the horrid weather change from cool and breezy in Nairobi to stinkin' hot and humid in Mombasa. Whatever it was, it knocked me out for at least 24 hours as I spent the first day party on Neema's friend's couch and party curled up in a fetal position at our hotel. I was afraid I had malaria, and it didn't help that everyone who saw me asked "you don't have malaria do you?" Luckily, no chills - outside of the humidity induced ones - and no severe fever beyond normal stomach bug issues, so I think I'm safe. Young escaped my fate and had a much better time, although he was a trooper and kept me company for most of the second day.

I've recovered mostly now, although I'm still having a bit of trouble with bigger meals. I was good enough though, to go out to the Mombasa National Marine Park here to meet up with a friend of Neema's who works for the Kenyan Wildlife Service. He took us out on a KWS boat for a couple hours, right off the coast, where Young and I snorkled and swam with the zebra fish. Awesome!

Anyway, things, as expected, have gone against expectations, and especially against schedules. We have decided to ditch our backup plan of going to Lamu (itself a plan arrived at after we decided we didn't have enough money for Kilimanjaro) and head directly down to Dar es Salaam tomorrow. So, we're finally leaving Kenya, after a few really nice weeks with old friends and new friends.

I don't have anything new and substantive and introspective to post - stomach bugs tend to take away any time for introspection, let along time to write! - so instead, I'll share this video from Kampala, Uganda of a conversation we had with a couple of boda-boda drivers there. Hope ya'll like it!