Thursday, September 23, 2010

Capsule Spot: Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

Ho Chi Minh (or Saigon, as it was once known) surprised me. It was more vibrant, more dynamic, more enticing than I had expected. The city is in that nice transition phase, where everyday Western luxuries like coffee shops and good pastries are readily available while the city still retains much of its flavor and character. It is also still relatively cheap, so travelers on a budget won’t cringe here, and those with a taste for luxury don’t have to break the bank.

Things to See and Do
Mekong Delta | While still a ways away from HCMC, the Mekong Delta is a convenient one day or overnight excursion, and worth doing. See how people are living in modern times on the most important river in Vietnam, and get a taste of local delicacies and fruits. Traditions may not be as strong as they once were, but a trip to the Mekong is still a good way of getting a taste of how the “real” Vietnam lives. One day trips involve quite a bit of road travel in relation to time spent on the river, so I’d suggest an overnight trip instead. Many companies also offer three day trips, but this seems to be a bit of overkill.

War Remnants Museum | This place used to be known as the Museum of American War Crimes. It has recently changed its name, after relations with the US normalized, but I daresay the contents of the museum have remained largely the same. The exhibits here present an unfortunate and wasteful war in all of its gory detail, and while there is no doubt propaganda here, I would venture to guess that there is more that is true than many Americans would want to believe. Disturbing exhibits aside, the collection of left-over American war machinery outside alone makes this museum worth visiting.

Saigon Saigon Bar @ the Caravelle | One of the most famous landmarks in Saigon, the Saigon Saigon is still worth an evening, if not for the drinks, then for the amazing view of downtown Ho Chi Minh. Located centrally, across from the Opera House, the views from Saigon Saigon are unparalleled. Especially nice on a cool evening, bring your camera and your wallet – drinks are not cheap.

The List
Yearning for a good massage but want to avoid those awkward happy ending offers? Look no further than 118 Foot & Body Massage, a smallish, new, clean, and totally legitimate spa in the heart of downtown Saigon. For a little less than 15 dollars, get access to a hot shower, a sauna, and an 80 minute oil massage complete with hot stones. 118 Pasteur Street, District 1, HCMC. 08-38215313

It’s a bit hidden and off the beaten track, but if you’re looking for a good French patisserie and boulangerie, you may want to drop by La Doree. Owned by a French Vietnamese, this place serves delicious looking pastries and decent food in a comfortable restaurant.

Essentially every tourist will have come to Ngon, but for good reason. Few other places offer the combination of food selection, tourist-friendly menu, cleanliness, and taste that Ngon does. Get pretty authentic specialties from around the country, and – added bonus! – finish off with traditional desserts. Reasonably priced for a tourist trap.

World-wise wisdom
Getting around – taxi’s are easy, but by no means necessary. Don’t be afraid to get on the bus. For 3000 dong, you can get into downtown Saigon from nearly anywhere.

If you’re backpacking and not 21, avoid the Pham Ngu Lau area. There are plenty of affordable (but not super-budget) options in other parts of town. Try the area behind Banh Trinh Market, or just south of the Opera House. You should be able to find a private room from 20USD and up.

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