With all of the good stuff that I’ve said about Hong Kong, and as much time as I’ve spent there, it’s surprising that I’ve never actually complied a mini-travel guide to the place. Well, the Capsule Spot seems like the perfect way to correct this situation. By now, anyone reading this should know that Hong Kong holds an incredibly special place in my heart – one of my favorite cities in the world, if not my very favorite. Food, chaos, energy, and the prettiest skyline in all of the world. What’s there not to like?
Things to See and Do
The Harbor | This is the only must-do activity in Hong Kong, and truthfully, much of what you will do in Hong Kong is a variation there-of. From finding restaurants with great views, to getting a stellar hotel room, to visiting the Peak, all of it is to see what is likely the most amazing skyline in the world. Better yet, the best view has been and still is free – directly across the Harbor in Tsim Tsa Tsui near the Star Ferry terminal. Take a leisurely stroll along the water’s edge and give yourself a good hour to just let your eyes and mind wander aimlessly over human ambition.
Escape the Chaos | Hong Kong is one of the most over-whelming places you will ever visit. With nearly 16,000 people per square mile and buildings that rise to nearly incomprehensible heights everywhere, it is easy to forget that that less than 25% Hong Kong’s total area is developed. Get out and see the parks, the beaches, or the outlying islands. Lamma Island is popular with ex-pats for it’s laid-back vibe, while Cheung Chau island offers the annual bun-festival in a sleepy island setting. Both are easily accessible by ferry. If you’re water-averse though, head to the back-side of Hong Kong Island to the sleepy hamlets of Repulse Bay, Aberdeen, and Stanley and take some pictures of beaches, junks, and the 1960s. There are also quite a few decent beaches in Hong Kong – locals swear by Big Wave Bay on the far eastern side of Hong Kong Island, while more ambitious folk will appreciate the isolation of a beach like Hap Mun Bay.
Mong Kok |Probably the most densely populated areas in one of the most densely populated places in the world, Mong Kok is full of people. It is worth going to on the weekend just to witness what a sea of humanity really looks like. It helps also that Mong Kok is one of the most vibrant shopping districts in the city, with malls (Langham Place), street stalls (Ladies Market), and hundreds of places to buy electronics. Goldfish Street is also fun to check out during the day, and there are a plethora of food choices (see below for my personal choice for BBQ here!) Finally, being the transit hub for all of Kowloon means that you’ll find ridiculous amounts of people wandering about at all hours here. It’s just like being in a triad movie (which are all based on Mong Kok anyway.) You have to see it to believe it.
The List
BBQ or char siu as it is more correctly known, is some of the best meat you’ll ever eat. Dim Sum lovers will know this best from BBQ pork buns, but it’s not the same until you get it fresh, still dripping, from the window. Try it at Wing Kee Restaurant (177 Portland Street) while taking a rest from all of the walking and shopping in Mong Kok; and since you’re in the adventurous mood, just go ahead and go crazy – get the crispy skin roast pork, the roast duck, and the roast goose too. My mouth is watering just thinking about it.
Some of the best Indian in the world can be found in Hong Kong, owing to its colonial past and the many Indians that the Brits brought over with them. A vegetarian friend introduced me to Branto in Tsim Tsa Tsui (9 Lock Road, 1/F) years ago, and I’ve been going back ever since. Everything is pretty good, but make sure you get the pani-puri. It’s safe and tasty.
A good meal deserves a good dessert to boot. Hong Kong desserts are just great. You can go the traditional route, with things like red beans soup or hazelnut milk. Or, you can go my favorite route, and get some of the fruit based desserts. Honeymoon Dessert is one of the more famous and reliable chains – you can find outlets in many malls (try Langham Place in Mong Kok, or World Trade Center in Causeway Bay.) I, however, almost always stop by Cheung Kee in Yau Ma Tei (21 Woo Sung Street.) Here, I have three words for you: mango, pomelo, sago. Delicious.
Most people go to Lan Kwai Fong for nightlife, but that’s so blasé. Instead, get a view with your drinks at these pricey but high-value bars. AquaSpirit is on the 30th floor of One Peking in Tsim Tsa Tsui, offers so-so food and absolutely stunning view of Hong Kong (translation: just get a drink here.) On Island-side, Azure at the top of LKF Hotel in upper Lan Kwai Fong offers 29th floor views from the top of a hill. Nice. In Admiralty, you can check out how Swire does swank at the Upper House in Pacific Place Mall. Café Grey Deluxe, on the top floor, is now the place where the who’s who in HK go to be seen, and has been getting rave reviews for the food – I haven’t tried it yet, but I find it hard to believe that anything could be better than the view here.
Finding a good place to stay in Hong Kong is always hard (and harder if you’re on a budget.) Screw it, just pay up and find out what real luxury feels like. Hullett House in Tsim Tsa Tsui offers only suites, and only 9 of them, all individually designed. Expect to pay over 500USD a night. The Peninsula, also in Tsim Tsa Tsui, is proven luxury, while I’ve heard good things about both Upper House and EAST from Swire (although EAST is a bit further from where the action is.) The most affordable 5-star luxury hotel in all of Hong Kong though, seems to be the Langham Place in Mong Kok, where a room is still just around 200USD. Being the only one of the above I’ve stayed in, I’m recommending this one.
World-wise Wisdom
Take the MTR. Everywhere. It’s fast, cheap, and simple to ride. If you’re there for a week, consider getting an Octopus card. It costs 50HKD to start out with, but you get a discount on all rides and it makes for a pretty cool souvenir.
The cheapest way to get from the airport to anywhere you want to go is by bus. The E buses are cheapest, but take much longer. The A buses are more expensive, but faster – about 40 minutes to Central on Hong Kong Island. If you’re in a rush though, feel free to splurge on the Airport Express train – about 10USD for a 25 minute ride to Central Station on Island side.
The best value (outside of the Star Ferry which is universally known as a tourist must-do) is the Island-side trolley that runs from Sheung Wan to Causeway Bay. For 2HKD, you get to go virtually the length of the island and see the city from a whole other perspective. Plop yourself down on a front seat upstairs and just enjoy the ride – it’ll take close to an hour with traffic, but you’re a tourist with time, aren’t you?
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