Capsule Spot: Manila, Philippines

I’ve already waxed poetic on the joys of living in Manila, so I won’t rehash all of that here. In general, I’m a big fan of the lifestyle that I can live in Manila, but less a fan of the city itself. Pollution, intense heat, and terrible traffic are but a few of the joys of everyday Manila living. Yet, this is more than made up for by the amiable people, diversity of entertainment options, and affordable food. I’m not sure how great a place Manila is for tourists, but I think it’s a pretty decent place to live.

Things to See and Do

Pasig River | Overlooked and underused, the ferry on the Pasig is one of the cheapest and best ways to the city. For just thirty pesos one way, you can get a river-level view of slums, rich neighborhoods, and industrial areas that are rarely seen otherwise. You will likely not find a more peaceful and relaxing mode of transportation in all of Metro Manila. It’s a fast way to move from one section of the city to another also.

Fort Santiago | Perhaps the only real tourist attraction in Manila, Fort Santiago and the surrounding old city are worth visiting just to get a taste of the colonial Spanish influence on the country. The golf course in the middle of the historical fort is a bit disconcerting, and the ticket price is high relative to what you get to see at the Fort itself, so if you choose to forego the Fort and instead just wander around the small alleys and streets in the Intermuros district, I would not fault you.

The List

Chicken and rice is everywhere, but if you really want to try some great chicken, head over to Bugong on Valero in Salcedo Village, Makati. Cheap, tasty, and a hole in the wall – this place is great for roasted chicken. If you’re feeling more like fried chicken, done Filipino style, try Max’s, a Filipino institution. A bit pricier than most other places, you can still pick up a full plate of chicken, rice, and cole slaw for around five bucks. Find Max’s throughout the city.

Casa Armas offers tasty tapas and Filipino food at a reasonable price. It’s not cheap, but for what you get, it’s worth it. I didn’t have a chance to try it, but a friend swears by their lechon – “so tender, they chop it up for you with a plate.” Sign me up! I went to the location on Jupiter Street in Makati, but check around as they have at least two more locations in Metro Manila.

Get your shopping on… anywhere. However, I suggest heading to Greenbelt in Makati for the best selection and indoor air conditioning. You can also go to church at Greenbelt too if you just have to do some shopping on the Sabbath. Mall of Asia is a good second choice, but further afield and it doesn’t have as many good dining options. It does however have an ice-skating rink.

There is a ton of great live music in Manila, but many of the places take a bit of work to get to when traffic is heavy. I ended up sticking to Makati a lot, and I think Suguijo is a gem of a find for live music. Basically just a tiny house, lots of popular indie acts will give rollicking live performances here an up-close and personal musical experience.

World-wise Wisdom

One of the best ways to get around is via Jeepney – the crazy and colorful converted American jeeps that dominate Filipino roads. Get a little taste of Filipino culture as you clamber into the back, sit on bench seats, and help pass money to the driver. Fares start at seven pesos and can go as high as thirteen, depending on the distance traveled. That’s right, you might pay a quarter if you go really far.

There are plenty of spas around that offer quality pampering in a nice environment for fairly cheap prices by Western standards. However, those in the know often eschew going to a spa for the cheaper and more convenient option of having a masseuse come straight to your home. Expect to pay 300 to 350 pesos (around 7-8 dollars) for an hour long sweedish or shiatsu massage, and despite the shady sound of it, most companies are legit and don’t offer any “special services.” Ask around to make sure you get a reputable company. Splurge for a twin massage if you’re feeling extra tense – two masseuses at once, for just under 2x the price!

Arriving at Ninoy Aquino Airport at a decent non-traffic-y hour? Don't take the fixed price cab then. Get in a metered cab, and get in one at the DEPARTURES level. They are 1/2 to 1/3 of the price of the taxis that pick you up from the ARRIVALS hall. Just go upstairs and get in line with all of the Filipinos.

Jeepneys and M16s

Two of my favorite things in the Philippines are the Jeepneys and the security guards. I love Jeepneys for how they are so representative of the Filipino culture (and they hardly cost anything to ride also!), while it never fails to amaze me how those security guards can be so friendly and approachable despite having an M16 or a shotgun pointing at your toes. Thus, I had to get these two pictures before I left Manila. :)

Hangin' Tough

I'm part of this website called "Couchsurfing" whose aim is to match travelers together with potential couch hosts. It's a neat idea, and although there are some problems with it, I generally still use it. I have all but given up on getting someone to host me, but I still use it to invite people out to lunch or coffee so I can get a local's perspective on the country. Another benefit is that many cities will have active CS communities that do regular social events. Manila is one such country, and last weekend they planned a fun "roadtrip" event in Manila that was designed to take people on four or five different forms of transportation in Metro Manila. One of my favorite forms is the Jeepney - a vehicle unique to the Philippines, but more than that, it's just a unique village period. On the "roadtrip" we had a ton of people going to the same places so we always had to take multiple of things like jeepneys or subway cars, and even then we were super crowded. So, lucky me, I actually got to hang out the back of a jeepney like some of the locals do. Below is the video of that craziness!

Just sayin.....

There is a nice and surprising sort of camaraderie amongst people who like taking pictures. Picture people are curious about each other and the cameras they use. As often as I catch others stealing furtive glances at my camera, I sneak peeks at theirs. Sometimes this leads to a conversation; other times just a friendly smile. This is how I met Don and James, two young local Filipinos who were taking pictures at Caracol - a big annual dance competition held here in Makati City, where groups from local schools elementary to university put together massive six minute dance routines to about specific theme (this year it was “Saving Mother Earth.”)

I was carrying my 50mm because it’s the lightest and I had no idea I’d run into a big event where I’d need a telephoto. Don looked at my camera and lens dubiously, and when I smiled, he asked me what lens I was using – in Tagalog, something I get a lot here. I’m not sure exactly why – darker skin tone, higher incidence of pinoys with long hair? – but a good amount of people think I’m Filipino. It took Don a second to realize that his question was pure gibberish to me. Then he quickly switched to English (it’s amazing that most Filipinos are equally capable in Tagalog and English, and many actually use an intriguing hybrid language composed of liberal doses of both) and asked me again. From there, we struck up a conversation, exchanged phone numbers, and agreed to go out shooting one day.

I mention all of this because we did indeed go out shooting this past weekend. James, Don, his girlfriend, and a friend I had visiting. At the end of the day, we did the requisite Facebook exchange thing. (Trust me, the fact that I’ve gone from being a principled Facebook holdout to an unmitigated Facebook whore does not escape me.) In any case, Don friends me and then writes me a message. “Man, If I knew the real reason for traveling I would have bombarded you with questions” he says. “Like, don't you think your lifestyle is the main factor why you haven't found the right girl yet? You've been traveling around so much that you don't get the sufficient amount of time to ‘meet’ someone.. just saying...”

Yeah, “just saying” eh? But, he is totally correct. I keep asking myself this same question: how am I supposed to meet someone when I’m never in one place long enough to really develop a relationship with them? I’m not saying that chance meetings that lead to amazing relationships don’t happen. Serendipity, fate, coincidence – whatever you call it, it does happen. Haven’t you seen the movie?

There’s a whole group of people who have faith in this notion of “you’re most likely to find it when you’re not looking.” I’ve tried it. Gone about ignoring everyone and walking around all day with my iPod blasting in my ears. It’s not worked out so well for me. I’ve also tried a less absolute version of it, where I keep my eyes open on planes, on buses, in coffee shops – similar results. So, now, I figure I should change tacts. I know that you can’t force things, but you’ve got to at least put yourself in a situations where you can meet people right?

Yet, as I found out when I stayed in California this past year, this requires not just a substantial investment of time and energy, but also some stability in your life. It’s hard to even begin to contemplate something long-term when long-term is measured in weeks. As Don pointed out, moving around definitely does not help. Heck, even if I did meet the right person, would I stay in one place long enough to know it? Would whoever I meet be okay with the instability brought about by my lifestyle? Would we be forced to do something long distance? I’m not sure about any of those answers, but I figure I’ve got to keep the faith. After all, two of the four couples that I’m seeing get married on this trip met while they were living somewhere - temporarily.