I’ve already waxed poetic on the joys of living in Manila, so I won’t rehash all of that here. In general, I’m a big fan of the lifestyle that I can live in Manila, but less a fan of the city itself. Pollution, intense heat, and terrible traffic are but a few of the joys of everyday Manila living. Yet, this is more than made up for by the amiable people, diversity of entertainment options, and affordable food. I’m not sure how great a place Manila is for tourists, but I think it’s a pretty decent place to live.
Things to See and Do
Pasig River | Overlooked and underused, the ferry on the Pasig is one of the cheapest and best ways to the city. For just thirty pesos one way, you can get a river-level view of slums, rich neighborhoods, and industrial areas that are rarely seen otherwise. You will likely not find a more peaceful and relaxing mode of transportation in all of Metro Manila. It’s a fast way to move from one section of the city to another also.
Fort Santiago | Perhaps the only real tourist attraction in Manila, Fort Santiago and the surrounding old city are worth visiting just to get a taste of the colonial Spanish influence on the country. The golf course in the middle of the historical fort is a bit disconcerting, and the ticket price is high relative to what you get to see at the Fort itself, so if you choose to forego the Fort and instead just wander around the small alleys and streets in the Intermuros district, I would not fault you.
The List
Chicken and rice is everywhere, but if you really want to try some great chicken, head over to Bugong on Valero in Salcedo Village, Makati. Cheap, tasty, and a hole in the wall – this place is great for roasted chicken. If you’re feeling more like fried chicken, done Filipino style, try Max’s, a Filipino institution. A bit pricier than most other places, you can still pick up a full plate of chicken, rice, and cole slaw for around five bucks. Find Max’s throughout the city.
Casa Armas offers tasty tapas and Filipino food at a reasonable price. It’s not cheap, but for what you get, it’s worth it. I didn’t have a chance to try it, but a friend swears by their lechon – “so tender, they chop it up for you with a plate.” Sign me up! I went to the location on Jupiter Street in Makati, but check around as they have at least two more locations in Metro Manila.
Get your shopping on… anywhere. However, I suggest heading to Greenbelt in Makati for the best selection and indoor air conditioning. You can also go to church at Greenbelt too if you just have to do some shopping on the Sabbath. Mall of Asia is a good second choice, but further afield and it doesn’t have as many good dining options. It does however have an ice-skating rink.
There is a ton of great live music in Manila, but many of the places take a bit of work to get to when traffic is heavy. I ended up sticking to Makati a lot, and I think Suguijo is a gem of a find for live music. Basically just a tiny house, lots of popular indie acts will give rollicking live performances here an up-close and personal musical experience.
World-wise Wisdom
One of the best ways to get around is via Jeepney – the crazy and colorful converted American jeeps that dominate Filipino roads. Get a little taste of Filipino culture as you clamber into the back, sit on bench seats, and help pass money to the driver. Fares start at seven pesos and can go as high as thirteen, depending on the distance traveled. That’s right, you might pay a quarter if you go really far.
There are plenty of spas around that offer quality pampering in a nice environment for fairly cheap prices by Western standards. However, those in the know often eschew going to a spa for the cheaper and more convenient option of having a masseuse come straight to your home. Expect to pay 300 to 350 pesos (around 7-8 dollars) for an hour long sweedish or shiatsu massage, and despite the shady sound of it, most companies are legit and don’t offer any “special services.” Ask around to make sure you get a reputable company. Splurge for a twin massage if you’re feeling extra tense – two masseuses at once, for just under 2x the price!
Arriving at Ninoy Aquino Airport at a decent non-traffic-y hour? Don't take the fixed price cab then. Get in a metered cab, and get in one at the DEPARTURES level. They are 1/2 to 1/3 of the price of the taxis that pick you up from the ARRIVALS hall. Just go upstairs and get in line with all of the Filipinos.
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